Review of Arthur Reblitz's "Player Piano - Servicing and Rebuliding"

Player Piano : Servicing and Rebuilding

Arthur Reblitz

1985 Vestal Press, Inc.

ISBN978-0-911572-40-7

This is the first book on Player Piano repair that I have purchased. I had previously purchased the second edition of Reblitz's “Piano Tuning, Servicing, and Rebuilding,” which I found to be very well written, well edited, and comprehensive enough for a book its size with its intended audience. Because of my positive experience with his other book, I had pretty high hopes for this one.

As this is my first book review, let me just start off by saying that the content of this book is fantastic. There is so much raw information acquired from decades of experience contained within this text. However, the organization of the content is an absolute disaster.

CONS

Unlike “Piano Tuning, Servicing, and Rebuilding,” the editing in “Player Piano” is horrible. Maybe the original edition of “Piano Tuning” was this bad too and was only fixed in the second edition, but if that is the case, Vestal Press should have re-edited them both at the same time 20 years ago. Before even getting into the main text, I flip to the Table of Contents which is nothing but vague chapter titles with page numbers and large useless blocks of text beneath them. Finding information on a specific aspect of the repair process is a real pain when the only reference you have is the start of a new chapter every 30-40 pages. The index is similarly scant. Only about 50% of the time does it lead me to the information I want.

The mostly useless table of contents

The mostly useless table of contents

Once into the actual text, the photos are usually quite helpful, although occasionally there will be a photo that is unrelated to the text around it or a photo in which the parts indicated are indistinguishable from each other due to poor contrast. The book is also full of technical diagrams that appear to have been pulled from a different text, as they are covered in reference numbers, but the list of part names that the numbers reference is curiously absent.

Unable to distinguish parts in photos with poor contrast.

Unable to distinguish parts in photos with poor contrast.

Diagrams that would be wonderfully specific if I knew what the numbers referred to.

Diagrams that would be wonderfully specific if I knew what the numbers referred to.

The other thing about the layout of this book that makes no sense to me is the separation of Chapters 4 and 5. Chapter 4 gives a series of broad tasks to be completed for each repair in sequence. However, the specifics of how to perform each task is withheld until chapter 5. This leads to constant flipping back and forth between the chapters to figure out what to do from chapter 4 and how to do it somewhere in chapter 5. It seems as though the book was written for the rare person who can read straight through the whole thing, retain every bit of information, and then proceed to perform every repair they need to without ever having to look at the book again.

My final criticism is a simple one: the text is monotonous and too much information is crammed into a single page. In “Piano Tuning, Servicing, and Rebuilding,” the text is given plenty of space between lines and the monotony is broke up with bulleted lists, bolding, and clearly marked section titles. “Player Piano” has none of these things. It is just block of plain text after block of plain text with the occasional (barely noticeable) italicized technical term included.

A typical page from "Player Piano"

A typical page from "Player Piano"

A typical page from "Piano Servicing, Tuning, and Rebuilding." Much easier to read and find what I'm looking for.

A typical page from "Piano Servicing, Tuning, and Rebuilding." Much easier to read and find what I'm looking for.

PROS

On the bright side of things, the content, as I said before, is wonderful. There are many pages of descriptions of the differences between many types of pneumatic covering material, glues and their strengths and weaknesses, types of cleaners and solvents, and even which species of wood is best for each application. The steps that walk you through each repair are very thorough and often give multiple methods for accomplishing the same goal, as well as many little tips and tricks that only come with years of experience and can make any player piano restoration easier.

One of the better images in "Player Piano." This image still has poor contrast, but the important parts of the image are easily distinguishable.

One of the better images in "Player Piano." This image still has poor contrast, but the important parts of the image are easily distinguishable.

A good 90 pages of the book are dedicated to providing specific information about variations between different brands of player mechanisms. Although I don't expect to ever use most of this information, it is reassuring to know that if I ever run into some odd proprietary system, it is probably covered in this book. About 30 pages worth of those 90 pages is dedicated to different brands of reproducing piano and orchestrion actions for those who want to dive into repairing instruments even more complex than the standard player piano.

Included at the end of the text is a “Troubleshooting” section. I like the idea of having a consolidated troubleshooting section, but for some reason it misses many troubleshooting steps that are discussed earlier in the book while including some great ideas that are not mentioned in the previous corresponding chapters.

Again, the content of the book is incredibly expansive. Almost any question I have come up with is answered somewhere in this book. However, it often takes me longer to find the relevant information in the book than it takes to perform the repair.

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Re-gluing Damper Felts

The glue holding the bass damper felts on my Milton Player Piano had degraded to the point that the felts were falling off on their own.  They were still in good enough shape, so I decided to pull the remaining felts off and re-glue all of them.  

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I start by holding the damper head firmly with one hand, while rotating the damper felt with the other until it comes free.  I work my way along until all of the old damper felts have been removed.

If I were re-gluing the treble damper felts, I would keep them in order, but for these bass felts it doesn't matter if they get mixed up.  Just keep the single-string dampers with the single-string notes and the doubles with the doubles.

To reattach the felts, I use Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.  Since the damper springs will provide the clamping action to hold the felts and damper heads together, I don't need the quick set that hot hide glue offers.  The liquid hide glue is much easier to work with and requires less set up time as well as less clean up.  

Some of the damper felts are not horizontally symettrical, so make sure that you keep them in the same orientation as they originally were.  The easiest way to do this is to keep the dirty side of the felt up and the clean side down.

Top side

Top side

Bottom side

Bottom side

Apply a small amount of glue to the back of the damper felt and then, using the strings as a guide, slide the damper down behind the corresponding damper head.  Allow the spring-loaded damper head to clamp the felt against the strings.

Try not to apply too much glue as it will squeeze out and fall onto other parts of the action where it doesn't belong.

Keep working along from left to right.  Going this direction will allow you more working room as well as better vision of the glue joint.

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Cracked Skid Board and More Stripped Screw Holes

This post is a continuation of the Milton Player Piano Series.

This time, I'll be repairing the skid board, which is the plank that makes up the bottom of the piano. The pedals, pedal rods, and blocks that the bellows mount to are all attached to the skid board.  

As you can see in the next few pictures, there are several large cracks running the length of the skid board.  This has caused the skid board to sag, which in turn prevents the pedals from working properly.  Also, most of the screw holes in the skid board are stripped out.  This prevents the pedal components from being firmly attached.

Before repairing the skid board, I remove all of the hardware that is attached to it.  There are a lot of pieces to keep track of here, so I number the bottom of each piece I remove, as well as draw a simple diagram to help with the reassembly later.

In order to make gluing and clamping the skid board easier, I use my Roll-Or-Kari Piano Moving Handtrucks to easily lift the piano an extra few inches off the ground.

The next step in repairing the cracks is to spread them slightly by tapping in a couple of wedges.  This will make it easier to get the glue all the way through.  Once the crack is opened up, I brush in some Titebond II, trying to get it all the way to the bottom of it along its whole length.

To clamp the skid board, I use these 3/4"  threaded pipe clamps along the underside of the piano.  After clamping, wipe off any excess glue with a damp rag.  Allow this to dry for 24 hours.

After the glue has dried, I attach these mending plates just for extra security against the crack re-opening in the future.  Any irregularities in the top of the skid board can also be smoothed out with a small block plane.

Now that the cracks have been repaired, I can move on to fixing the stripped screw holes.  The first thing to do here is to draw a large x through the center of each hole to be repaired.  This will assist in redrilling the holes in the exact same location later on.

After the X's have been drawn, I enlarge each hole with a 3/8" Forstner bit to about a centimeter deep.  I then proceed to glue a 3/8" plug into each hole, making sure to align the grain of the plug with the grain of the skid board.

This repair must be performed using plugs, not with dowel pins as the grain of a dowel pin runs the wrong direction.

Once the glue has dried on these plugs, the last steps are to extend the X's that I drew previously onto the plugs, make a dent precisely in the center with a sharpened punch, and predrill each hole with a bit that is the same size or slightly larger than the shaft of the corresponding screw.

After each plug has been predrilled, the pedals and pedal hardware can be reinstalled.

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Bridle Strap Replacement

One of the most common repairs I run into is that of broken bridle straps.  These straps are made of a thin cloth that becomes dry rotted over time and are usually the first things to go bad in a piano.  Broken bridle straps can also serve as a good warning sign that other problems might soon arise in the piano action.  Luckily, replacing bridle straps is one of the quickest and easiest repairs you will run into.

The bridle straps have a cork end that is pushed into a hole in the catcher which is attached to the hammer butt.  The other end of the strap is slipped over a wire that is attached to the whippen  (the whippen transfers force from the key to the hammer, as well as to the dampers).  The purpose of the bridle strap is make removing and reinstalling the piano action easier.  The straps keep the whippens  from hanging down loosely which can cause them to catch on the key capstans and break when the action is put back in the piano.  The straps can also help the hammers return to rest in a poorly regulated or sluggish action.

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The cork end of the broken straps can easily be popped out of the catcher with a simple tool made from a bicycle spoke or other thick wire..

New bridle straps, as well as the tool to insert them, can be purchased from any piano supply warehouse such as Schaff (also known as Vanda King) or Pianotek.  They are only sold by the set, not individually.  This is usually fine because they are cheap and it is a good idea to have extras on hand.

The cork tips stick onto the end of the tool which can then be pushed into the hole in the catcher.

The other end can then be hooked onto the wire coming out of the whippen, and that's all there is to it.

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The Best and Worst Places to Keep a Piano in Your Home

This is some great information about how the placement of a piano in your home can greatly affect its longevity.  This was originally posted by Bol Pianos Africa.

 

The Best Place In Your Home To Put Your Piano
In order to decide the best place to position your piano, you first need to know where NOT to put it. 
Climate and environment
It’s very important to achieve a constant temperature. Pianos don’t like being in a room that constantly changes temperature (cold at night, hot during the day etc.).
Try your best to keep your piano in a room that has the heating on the low side during the winter and is also not too hot and sticky in the summer.
A constant temperature of around 20 centigrade (65-70 Fahrenheit) and a humidity level of between 45 and 60 percent are ideal. The easiest way to keep an eye on this is to buy a humidifier gauge and stick it on the wall.
Central heating systems
A piano’s number one enemy!
When your heating is off during the night, the humidity rises; when it’s switched back on in the morning, the humidity drops. These changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and shrink, causing your piano to go out of tune. Over a long period of time, problems such as loose tuning pins, cracked soundboards, split bridges, wobbly hammers and loose keys can occur.
Central heating can cause the soundboard to crack. Cracked soundboards encourage buzzing noises to appear and in extreme cases, can completely deaden the sound of your piano.
Central heating can dry out the wrest plank. If this happens, the tuning pins that hold the high tension of the strings start to loosen. This results in your piano not being able to stay in tune.
Keep your piano away from heat sources
Keep your piano as far away from radiators or electric heaters as possible.
Never put your piano in a room that has under-floor heating! This will completely ruin your piano VERY quickly. If your whole house is fitted with under floor heating then all you can do is place a heavy rug underneath it. This will provide some protection for your piano.
Sunshine is very nice, but pianos don’t really care much for a tan!
Direct sunshine coming through a window can be a big problem for your piano…
Apart from disturbing the humidity level in your piano, direct sunshine is the cause of another serious issue - fading.
If your piano is under direct sunlight – even for a few days – the wood will start to fade.
A high gloss polyester finish can be completely ruined if left under direct sunlight for too long. Sunshine will also knock your piano out of tune.
Solution – keep your piano away from windows that let sunlight through, or place a heavy cover over your piano to protect it.
Kitchens are a threat
If you have an open floor plan (kitchen and living room together) you must keep your piano as far away from your kitchen as possible. The steam from cooking gets absorbed in the piano’s wood, resulting in an extreme level of humidity. This will cause many problems for your piano including: sluggish and sticking keys, slow hammers and dampers, swelling key lead and expanding felts. This excessive humidity can even cause tuning pins, bridge pins and strings to rust.
If, despite your best efforts to keep your piano away from harm. you still find you’ve got a problem, ask your piano tuner to fit a humidity control system inside your piano. This regulates the moisture content inside the piano.
Drafts
Pianos don’t get on well with drafts either.
If your piano is next to a window or an outside door, watch out! You’ll find that keys will start sticking, dampers will stop working and many other small annoyances will interfere with your piano’s performance. If you have double-glazed windows, this will reduce the problem.
Which room is best to put your piano?
For those of you lucky enough to have a purpose built music room, great.
Otherwise…
Your dining room is probably the next best place to keep your piano. Dining rooms tend to keep a more constant humidity level and have a lower temperature than other rooms in the house.
To summarise:
Where NOT to put your piano:
• Next to a window that lets in sunlight or drafts
• Next to an outside door
• Next to, or in front of a radiator or other heat source
• In a room with under floor heating
• Next to an open kitchen
• Next to, or underneath an air conditioning unit
• In a garage, shed or conservatory

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